Water changes while cycling?

My Test kit says it's important to test pH and ammonia daily when cycling a new SW aquarium. Does this imply that one should perform water changes if the pH drops or ammonia levels increase?

I thought that you wanted these things to happen so that the bacteria would build up as fast as possible. The more bad stuff, the more available for the bacteria. Right?

It seems that the thing to do is to wait until the Nitrates start to climb, which would indicate the bacteria has begun working on the Nitrites.

If this is true, then how high do I let Nitrates get before changing my water in earnest?

Thanks!

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-Tony.

Found my answer:

Week 1-2

Avoid water changes. Top off with pure water if necessary to maintain the s.g. you have chosen. Check parameters on the tank. With uncured, start lighting 1-2 hours/day and slowly increase about 1/2 hour per day until 8-12 hours are reached. You may start to see little white things moving around. These may be copepods and are GOOD...food. Your cycle may complete in less than a week or may take more.

...

Cycle Completed

When your ammonia and nitrites finally fall to zero and you see a rise in nitrates, your tank is most likely cycled. You may start your first water change. Try a 25% change for the first time and then you can start on your weekly 10% water changes. You might be able to bring your nitrates to zero.

Read full text at at: http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=133913

When I was researching how to do this for FW aquariums, I actually found different sites advocating both positions. What I went with was what another resource suggested: 10-15% water changes every couple days for the first couple weeks. After reading what you found about SW tanks though, I'm inclined to think these are very different worlds, as FW cycling takes at least a month if beginning from scratch, etc... I'd go with what you found; good luck!